Ted Rosen (W8231) asks about Towing Your Wayfarer
and gets answers from Ton Jaspers, Ralph Roberts, Uncle Al and Tony Krauss
last updated: 22 July 09
...
----- Original Message -----
To: Ted Rosen
Cc: Ray Scragg ; Richard Johnson W10139 ; Peter Rahn W286 ; John Mellor W1162 ; Ralph Roberts W9885 ; Tony Krauss W4105/276 ; Ton Jaspers (W10445) ; Poul Ammentorp W239 ; Jesper Achton Friis W9355 ; Kit Wallace W1037 ; Ken Jensen (W1348) ; HD-World W10390 Lützenkirchen ; Dick Harrington W887
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 11:25 AM
Subject: trailering FAQ

Hi, Ted:
 
A fine suggestion. I like/agree with the material on the Quiet Waters site whose link you have provided. I do have some ideas but am first copying this to others all over the Wayfarer world whose input is sure to be valuable. So, gentlemen, would each of you please answer Ted's questions as best you can and copy all of us at your earliest convenience? Then I will put the material together for a comprehensive WIT post. Thanks. Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)


Hi again, Ted:
 
I am at last (19 July 09) ready to add my thoughts on trailering in green below - after which I hope to put the entire collection of info into the WIT.
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ted Rosen
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 7:35 AM
Subject: WIT-trailering FAQ

Al,
I know that you are busy with the summer’s activities, so I hope this is not an added burden.
 
It occurred to me that one area of knowledge which would be helpful to post on the WIT Cruising section would be recommendations and procedures for trailering a Wayfarer. 
 
I am completely new to trailering a boat (although I’ve been sailing for 30 years)  intend to do some cruising away from my sailing club and therefore will be using a boat trailer for the first time this summer.  For those with experience this may be a no brainer.  I suspect there are better and less successful methods, and perhaps some unique aspects of the Wayfarer to be aware of.
 
I would hope that this could include:
 
basic checking of the trailer before loading the boat
Basic set-up: Your trailer should be set up such that (almost) the entire weight of your Wayfarer is supported by its keel, i.e. the keel rollers of your trailer should do all of the real support work, and the bits off to the sides should act only to keep the boat from tilting appreciably to port or starboard.
Lights board: http://www.wayfarer-international.org/WIT/maint.repair.ref/trailers/Wtrailer.html  explains my set-up in detail and lists benefits of using a trailer lights board, not the least of which is that I can leave the trailer sitting somewhere with less fear of theft because the lights board is removed before the boat is launched. 
Pre-trip checking: The only checking I do is before long trips (100+ miles), and that is to ensure that the bearings are OK and well greased - I blush to confess that I have my mechanic do this.
 
loading the boat on the trailer (mast up/down?)
Most people load the boat onto the trailer from the water at a ramp and with the mast up - but do watch out for overhead wires (or tree branches)!! More dinghy sailors have died from hitting live wires than from on-the-water misadventure to the best of my knowledge! The mast is easily lowered once boat and trailer are ashore. Unless you are about to store your mast away from your boat for the winter or some such, leave your shrouds attached to their chainplates after lowering. This will still leave you enough slack to remove the pivot pin and then the mast from the tabernacle, whereupon you should lay the mast into its towing position with its foot facing forward. Leaving the shrouds attached saves considerable time and effort and works especially well when trailering with your cover on the boat.
 
securing the boat, rigging and mast for highway travel
I hook SHADES' bow eye to the winch rope and winch it snug. Near the aft end of the trailer bed, we run a strap across the boat: snug but not tight. The strap is only there to keep the boat from falling off the trailer on sudden turns. Then the whole thing goes under my cover as shown at http://www.wayfarer-international.org/WIT/maint.repair.ref/trailers/Wtrailer.html where I also have pics that show stowage of mast & rigging. I mostly tie loose ends of rigging lines around the lower half of the mast using half-hitches. Some people cover that with a "mast bag" but I don't bother.
 
launching steps at the destination (dock? Anchor? Mooring? Etc.)
All I can really suggest is that you think ahead. E.g. if you have no tilt-bed trailer, find a place to launch where your boat will easily float off its trailer, or failing that, make sure you have several strong young people to help ease the boat off the trailer as we had to do last Fall at Clark Lake in the pic below:
 
 
 
And of course, have a suitable docking/mooring/anchoring spot picked out before launching!!
 
trailer storage while cruising
We have usually left the trailer with our vehicle in the parking lot at the marina where we launched or nearest equivalent. Some people padlock their trailer to the hitch. A removed lights board also makes the trailer less attractive to possible thieves, insofar as it will have no licence plate and thus be more likely to be noted/stopped by police.
 
use of boat cover or not on the highway
Boat cover on highway is great in my vast experience - notwithstanding Ton's gas mileage tests that vote against use of a cover on the road. For me, the boat protection and extra storage are well worth the possible reduced fuel efficiency. Uncle Al apologizes for mis-remembering Ton's views which Ton reminds us of below:

----- Original Message -----
From: Wayfarer
To: 'Al Schonborn' ; 'Ted Rosen'
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:47 PM

Hi Uncle Al,
 
To add to the confusion a few remarks.
 
With regard to covering while driving, consider that with an uncovered boat the wind bangs against the aft bulkhead, any cover will prevent this. My fuel measurements on a 800 km trip to Copenhagen and back compare a boat without any cover to a boat with a flat trailer cover. The question if an over boom cover used as trailer cover saves fuel remains unanswered AFAIK. My guess is that it saves some fuel but not as much as a flat cover. 
 
The second benefit of a cover (any type) is that the loose parts inside the boat do not need to be secured, whereas with an uncovered boat everything is exposed to the wind and needs to be secured.  
 
I use a mast end bag not for mast protection but to quickly stow the halyards. I just throw them in the bag and be done with them. People that do not use a mast end bag need to carefully tie the halyards around the mast so they don't flap around in the wind. So, In my case the reason for using a mast end bag is to minimize the road preparation time. BTW my mast end bag started life as a two dollar plastic parasol cover from which I cut the top off. I closed it again using Conny's sewing machine but some gaffer tape would work too I think.  
 
Best wishes,
Ton

----- Original Message -----
To: Wayfarer ; 'Ted Rosen'
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 4:51 PM
Subject: trailing with cover

Hi, Ton:
 
I totally agree that towing with a covered boat is the way to go. However, I myself found the bottom cover more trouble than it was worth to me, and have never suffered bottom damage while trailing that a bottom cover would have prevented, since I gave up on my bottom cover in the early 1980's. I will add this to the exchange on our boat towing page.
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)


----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph Roberts
To: Al Schonborn ; Wayfarer ; 'Ted Rosen'
Cc: 'Tony Krauss W4105/276'
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 3:40 AM



If it is any help to the discussion, I used an overboom cover for trailing my boat to Sweden and back, lashed down as illustrated, and it worked pretty well in stopping the cover from billowing out when driving at speed. A further improvement would be to use 2 more straps further back, also with cross ties between them.
Best wishes, Ralph

Original Message -----
To: Ralph Roberts ; Wayfarer ; 'Ted Rosen'
Cc: 'Tony Krauss W4105/276'
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 12:08 PM

Hi, Ralph:
 
Can't wait to hear about your voyage and see pictures!! I will add your info and illustration to the towing page. For what it's worth, I just let the cover "inflate" (billow but not flog/luff) and assume that the curve generates lift that reduces towing weight and thus saves gas. Untested, of course!
 
Best regards,
 
Uncle Al  (W3854)



 
special tips and precautions
don't forget to bring a spare trailer wheel - I prefer light tongue weight: 20 to 30 pounds, perhaps - even small, weak cars can nicely do the towing job: I started out doing several thousand miles towing W116 with my 1966 VW Beetle
 
travel outside Canada with boat/trailer, etc.
what I did was get a green card from Canada customs the first time I was about to leave Canada with the boat so that I would have proof that the boat had come from Canada on the way back. My first attempt was a disaster when I told them I was going to a regatta and they treated me like guys bringing in racing motor boats, wanting me to line up a customs broker. They finally relented when I lucked in by telling them if was not a regatta with prize money. In other words, it's often easier to just say you're going sailing in place X this weekend, etc. 
 
I found some basic trailer info at: http://www.sailboatsales.com/node/6    but this lacks a lot of the above items.
Some very good stuff there however, as I recall. 
 
Hopefully this WIT item would encourage others who are less familiar with trailers to explore farther afield and assist those experienced with a safer trip.
 
Thanks,
 
Ted,
W8231
from Tony Krauss (W4105):
----- Original Message -----
From: tmk-W4105
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 1:31 PM

1. Get Bearing buddies
2. Carry a spare set of bearings, lithium grease, flat head screwdriver, pliers, Cresent wrench, hammer, and 1.5" x 1.5" section (half a 2x4) about a foot long.  Oh, yeah, unless it's like my truck, lots of rags.
3. If the trailer starts to go into harmonic oscillation (typically happens going down hill as the trailer tries to pass you) accelerate, early and radically.  This is very unlikely with a W, but it's more a function of the boat/trailer combination's center of mass w.r.t. the axle: aft is bad (i.e. tongue weight is your friend).

-tmk


On Fri, Jun 12, 2009 at 10:22 PM, Al Schonborn <uncle-al3854@cogeco.ca> wrote:
Thanks, Tony! What's the wood for - pardon my ignorance. BTW, I have minimal tongue weight (20 lbs??) and have never had the oscillation problem you mention.

The wood (and it's good buddy, the hammer) is to drive the cup out of the hub.  -tmk

from Ton Jaspers (W10445):
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayfarer
To: 'Al Schonborn' ; 'Ted Rosen'
Cc: 'Ray Scragg' ; 'Richard Johnson W10139' ; 'Peter Rahn W286' ; 'John Mellor W1162' ; 'Ralph Roberts W9885' ; 'Tony Krauss W4105/276' ; 'Poul Ammentorp W239' ; 'Jesper Achton Friis W9355' ; 'Kit Wallace W1037' ; 'Ken Jensen (W1348)' ; 'HD-World W10390 Lützenkirchen' ; 'Dick Harrington W887'
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 5:43 PM

Hi Ted & Al
 
I have written something about it here: http://www.wayfarer.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=634
But if you search the UKWA forum for the word "trailer" there are many hits.
 
 
Other than that there are two (three?) schools that don't seem to be able to come to agreement. First there is the "keep it simple use a combi trailer" school and then there is the "you need lots of keel support on long distances" school. I don't know who is right and I am not getting into that debate, either.
 
I am quite pleased with my (single keel roller) combi trailer. Maybe the "lots of support" guys use their Wayfarers as a baggage buggy? I carry all my heavy stuff in the car and always did, even when I still head my heavy duty road trailer with five keel rollers (the type that requires seven sailors and a winch to get the boat on it). With my combi trailer, I can get my boat out of the water and travel-ready single-handed, within the hour. I never accepted the "long haul" argument. The chance of something happening to the boat on a 5-mile "country road full of pot holes" trip between home and harbour are perhaps bigger then something happening on a 1000-mile trip on a smooth highway....    (Darn, I am getting into the debate again, nuf said!)
 
Basic checking includes the bearings. If grease shows, the grease rings of the bearings probably need to be replaced. If not, the bearings may run dry and burn or (salt) water may find its way in to the bearings which has the same effect as running them dry, only faster. In my case, I have my trailer checked professionally because of the insurance. We are also required to have it professionally checked by law every three years if we want to use it at high speeds. I never allow the axles to go under water specially not on salt water. But this has become a thing of the past altogether, now that I have a combi trailer which consists of a road base and a separate launching trolley. 

Before each trip I check if there is still grease on the towing hook. Then I check the air pressure in the tires and the lighting board. I always carry spare bulbs (the same as for the car) and a very small pot with some axle grease (e.g. medicine pot from the  pharmacist).    
 
As stated in referred essays, I never tie the boat down. I only add straps to prevent her from bouncing off the trailer. Tying her hard down may damage her because the boat moves different than the trailer and if something has to give at a certain moment, it is usually the boat. So allow her to move around a little. (Uncle Al: Amen!!!!)
 
For storage while on holiday I carry a certified 5-yard steel cable and lock. It allows me to connect the trailer and trolley to a tree or another trailer or whatever. Because the lock and cable are certified, I am safe as far as the insurance goes.
 
I always use an undercover to protect the boat from damage by chippings. A simple nylon undercover is cheap, much cheaper than a paint job. 
 
A flat trailer cover (as opposed to an over-boom cover that I use in the dinghy park) saves up to 15% on fuel on long trips. Do the math: One trip to Florida pays for a trailer cover in fuel savings. An over-boom cover usually blows itself up like a balloon when used as a road cover and induces more drag that a boat without a cover. A cover also allows all the rigging and other stuff to be left in the boat. Without a cover everything has to be secured.   
  
We do 60+ mph legally over here with our trailers (75 mph in Germany). Because of these speeds I have car wheels and tires and no trailer tires on my trailer. Most trailer tires are not certified for these speeds. And don't forget your spare wheel and a cross wrench. Also check if your car jack can be used on the trailer.  
  
Best wishes,
Ton Jaspers
(W10445 - Swiebertje)

from Ralph Roberts (W9885):
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph Roberts
To: Al Schonborn ; Ted Rosen
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:53 AM

The only thing I would add to Ton's report is that I am sure I can remember Ian Porter saying that more structural damage is done to boats on trailers than is done when they are on the water. It is important that all the weight of the boat is taken by the central hog, rather than the two bilge keels, and the boat should be able to rock very slightly from one bilge keel to the other to ensure the weight is on the central keel. I will re-check this info with Ian Porter if I have time before I leave for the Baltic on Fri, or else I will do so on my return (22nd July).

Best wishes, Ralph