Subject: Uncle
Al sings
the praises of, and explains - with photos - the virtues of, his
Pamco
trailer
----- Original Message
-----
From: Al Schonborn
To: The Fullers
Sent: Friday, October
05,
2001 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: trailering
Hi, Darcy:
Sorry to be so long
in getting
back to you. I am not an authority on trailers but will give you my
opinion
in red below.
Uncle Al (W3854)
----- Original
Message -----
From: The Fuller's
To:
uncle-al@home.com
Sent: Sunday, September
23,
2001 6:52 PM
Subject: trailering
hey Al
I was just wondering
what
the best way to trailer and launch Wayfarers are?
Would you use a dolly
trailer
combo or just a trailer?
When I got W3854 in
1977,
she came with a UK-built combi-trailer (boat trailer with slide-on
dolly).
While there are people who swear by this set-up, it was my experience
that
their suspension was not the best. Every bump in the road went straight
to the boat. Having been fortunate enough to acquire a Michigan-built
Pamco
trailer with W4000 in 1975, I had a basis for comparison - and there
was
none!!! I kept the Pamco trailer which goes over bumps that jar my
teeth
in my VW Golf while the baby (W3854) barely vibrates. The bad news is
that
I believe Pamco has gone out of business, but I will describe the other
things that make me love this trailer which is still doing a super job
with heavy use over 25 years later - and I got it used!
I need to rebuild my
trailer
anyways, but I want to build it so it will be most useful.
If at all possible, you
want
a tilt-bed trailer with longitudinal supports (mine fit just inside the
bilge keels on each side) set so that they keep the boat reasonably
level
but do not support significant weight (which should be supported by the
keel rollers). I believe Abbott's trailers come with one or two
V-shaped
wooden but carpeting-covered transverse supports (see photo below)
...
...
This more or less
requires
submerging the trailer until the boat floats off - and in some cases,
where
the water is quite shallow, that can mean unhooking the trailer from
the
car and walking in quite a ways. The alternative being to drag the boat
off and onto the trailer by main force. I do not favour this approach.
My tilt-bed trailer with longitudinal supports invariably gets backed
up
until the tires just touch the water. After this, we just tilt the bed,
and the boat (provided the centreboard is bungeed into the full up
position)
gently slides off into the water. If the water depth is less than 6
inches
where the transom will hit the water, I stand at the back and lift a
bit
as SHADES slides off to lessen the angle.
Other items that I like
(or
would like):
We have a nice,
adjustable
V-brace for the mast above the winch assembly. When we get ready to
trailer
the boat, we just take the mast down by removing only the forestay from
its fitting at the bow. Once the mast is lying flat, we remove the mast
pin and, even with the shrouds attached, the mast just nicely comes out
from under the deck, after which we just lay the foot of the mast into
the V-support above the winch assembly such that about three feet of
mast
stick out past the transom.
It is good to place the
above
assembly fore and aft such that the tongue weight is not excessive - I
would guess that ours is about 50 lbs. and could/should be less. Once
that
is set, you want to adjust the centre rollers such that they each bear
as equal a share of the load as possible.
We have a tiny wheel at
the
front of the trailer that was put on when the boats went overseas by
plane
in 1983. A much nicer set-up is a crank-up wheel assembly that can be
adjusted
with a crank and folded out of the way once the trailer is attached to
the car. I'm seriously contemplating getting one of these since they
allow
you to store the boat totally level and let any rain water drain out
the
open self-bailers when the boat is on shore.
We're hitting the
circuit
next year in Ontario.
We'll look forward to
seeing
you. There will be an AGM + party in January which you would be most
welcome
to attend if you want to meet a few of the gang. The details will be
posted
in the next month or so under Coming
Up on the Whiffle Web.
Hope this helps you.
Let me
know if you want a picture of our trailer which I could get in the next
little while if you think it would help.
Best regards,
Uncle Al.
Darcy
Fuller W7566
(CAN66)
South Port Sailing Club
----- Original
Message -----
From: The Fullers
To: Al Schonborn
Sent: Saturday, October
06,
2001 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: trailering
f you could get a
picture
that would help, too! I was thinking on making a couple of
cradles
for the hull to attach to the trailer so it's sitting perfect,
and
maybe cut down the dolly and attach it to the trailer in some way.
----- Original
Message -----
From: Al Schonborn
To: The Fullers
Sent: Saturday, October
06,
2001 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: trailering
I'll go out and take
a couple
of pics right now - but I don't know how soon the roll will be done.
Within
a week, I hope.
The trouble with
having the
boat too cradled will be that you have to immerse the whole trailer to
float the little dear off. My experience is that it's best just to have
the keel support the whole weight of the boat - and try to distribute
that
weight among the rollers as well as possible. Many don't even bother
with
this - and their boats seem not to suffer that anyone can see.
Best regards,
Uncle Al (W3854)
----- Original
Message -----
From: Al Schonborn
To: Al Schonborn
Sent: Friday, October
12,
2001 11:27 AM
Subject: trailer pics
Hi, Darcy:
The trailer pics are
done.
I'm just creating an illustrated write-up which I will insert later
today
- along with our correspondence - into
If you want, I can also
send
you an e-mail with the pics and the suitable captions. Let me know what
remains unclear! Best regards,
Uncle Al (W3854)
|
Uncle
Al talks Wayfarer trailers
I suspect that
no one in the
Wayfarer world has trailed his boat more often and more miles than
Uncle
Al - not even George Blanchard. Every year since I learned to drive in
1966, my various Wayfarers have gone to a dozen or more away regattas,
and I have trailed my Wayfarer thousands of miles in each of the 35
sailing
seasons since then.
While my early
trailers were
adequate, the real breakthrough came in 1975 when I purchased W4000
along
with the Pamco trailer in the photos below. To my mind the Pamco
trailer is without any doubt the finest Wayfarer trailer ever made. And
now for the bad news: Pamco appears to have gone out of business. I've
searched the Internet and been unable to find hide nor hair of them.
What I will do
below however,
is outline the features that I find important in a Wayfarer trailer and
why I have found them useful:
|
|
1. This trailer has an excellent
suspension. SHADES
(above) came with one of those snazzy UK-built trailer/dolly
combinations
but what I immediately noticed was that the boat got a much bouncier
ride
than on the Pamco. Of course, I had been getting
spoiled
since I was used to going over bumps that jarred my teeth in the car
while
my "baby" on the Pamco trailer barely even vibrated a bit!
2. The lever shown in the photo can be
pulled towards
you allowing the bed of the trailer to tilt. With this system I
regularly
back the trailer up only until the tires barely touch the water. This
keeps
the bearings dry and I suppose prevents a certain amount of grease from
contaminating the water. With longitudinal boat supports at the sides
(see
#16 below), the trailer allows the boat to gently slide off into the
water
as I gently lift the bow to tilt the bed. Only in rocky water less than
15 cm. deep, do I actually have to be careful not to let the boat slide
off at will. In such instances, we keep the winch rope (#10 below) as
well
as the painter attached to the bow eye. One of us then gently unwinches
while the other attempts to lift the transom a bit to prevent the tilt
from becoming too steep.
This is a distinct improvement over
some trailers
that need to be manhandled 100 feet into (and even worse, out
of!!!)
shallow water before the boat may finally float free! |
|
3. The front assembly of the
trailer is very important.
I have seen a number of Wayfarers struggle with a system that is less
well
laid out than this.
4. The V-shaped mast support is now
re-carpeted
courtesy of Julia. See photo below:
...
...
5. Note how our mast is stored for
trailer travel.
I have seen any number of Wayfarers do abundant unnecessary work here.
All we do after lowering the mast is take the pivot pin out. The boat
is
so well designed that without detaching the shrouds from their
chainplates
on the deck, the mast can be pulled aft just far enough to get the
foot past the aft edge of the foredeck. Then it's a simple matter of
sitting
on the front seat, lifting the mast over my head (preferably with the
crew
lifting the aft end - although George Blanchard has a little wheel at
the
transom mast support so that he can do the whole thing alone!) and
passing
it forward until the spreaders pass my head. At this point the mast is
far enough forward and I lower it into the V-bracket where it is
fastened
with a simple shock cord loop that goes over both sides of the
V-bracket.
All that remains of this job is to tuck any shroud
bits hanging
out of the boat inboard. This works even if you trail without a cover
on.
6. The V-strut is adjustable as it is
able to slide
up and down inside the lower vertical strut and kept in place by
tightening
a bolt on the far side not shown in these photos (sorry about
that!).
7. One little drawback of this
arrangement was
that the original lower strut gathered water at its lower end and
eventually
began to rust out. By the time I drilled a little hole at the side as
close
to the bottom plate as I could get, it was too far gone. I went to the
mast makers, Klacko's here in Oakville and for a reasonable
price,
they took the pieces of the old one and made me the stainless
replacement
you can see gleaming above. It was a very worthwhile expense after the
annoyance of having the old one buckle while on the road far from home!
8. For SHADES' 1983 flight to
the Worlds
at Hayling, we had to attach the little wheel you can just barely see.
This works OK on paved surfaces but if I could figure out where to put
it, 'd get the bigger, adjustable fold-away model shown below in an
image
from the Canadian Tire on-line catalogue, part #0409035
which would allow me to winch it up to
keep the boat
exactly level in the boat park so that any rainwater that gets into the
boat goes straight back out the bailers!
9. The safety chains that come with the
Pamco
trailer simply end in S-hooks which hang nicely from the pair of eyes
at
the sides of my car's hitch - held in places only by gravity. A very
simple,
fast system - and neither chain has ever fallen off by itself!
10. Ideally, the winch should be at the
same level
as the bow eye when the boat is on the trailer. Most trailers are off
on
this and the boat has to be manhandled the last foot or so until the
bow
meets its receptacle. Even my bow eye is not in perfect position (see
photo)
but it's pretty darn close! |
|
11. The last Hans Gottschling cover
I trailed with
(12-15 regattas/year as I have mentioned) lasted me about 15 years. I
had
expected the cover to flap itself to shreds but have been pleasantly
surprised
to find that, while I am trailing, the cover simply balloons into a
nice
airfoil shape - presumably from air that enters the slight aperture
where
the zipper meets the mast and exits through the mast hole at the back.
12. The trailer-lights board - commonly
used in
Europe - is a wonderful idea whose time is long overdue in North
America.
This board was made for me by my long-ago London, Ontario Fireball
buddy,
Dana Seymour in 1972 when I was sailing a Fireball (note the Fireball
transom
shape). On the Fireball is hooked onto the boat's two rudder fittings -
we got an old bronze pintle and gudgeon - cheap - that have done the
job
ever since. You could make one that is more a Wayfarer transom size and
use two rudder fittings to hold it in place - with appropriate cover
holes,
of course. I, on the other hand, was too lazy and have been hooking on
only the upper pintle while dead ending a rope through the lower
fitting
(a gudgeon) and tying it in position as shown above.
There are several beauties to this
system:
- the lights never get immersed in
water during
launch
- wiring on a lights board is much
easier to repair
than wiring inside the angle iron of a trailer
- should the need arise, I can tow
someone else's
trailer with my board and not worry about his trailer lighting system
matching
mine
- being at the end of the boat not the
trailer,
the lights are close enough to the mast tip to avoid any nitpicky
constable
ticketing me for no extra light on the mast tip - which under Ontario
law
is, I believe, required where the mast tip is more than 6 feet behind
the
lights (see #13 above)
- when the wiring goes, I can just take
the board
and the car in to my garage but leave the boat and trailer behind
- I can sit with the board in my lap in
the driver's
seat to check that all signals are go (see #14) |
|
15. In this photo you can see two
of the three
centre rollers that are supposed to bear the lion's share of the boats
weight on the trailer. All three are adjustable up and down and have
been
re-set so that all three are right up against the keel when SHADES
has been fully winched up onto her trailer.
16. Even though the longitudinal outer
supports
cross under the aft bulkhead, conventional wisdom is that they should
not
support the boat's weight - a task which is best left to the keel (see
#15). On this trailer, these supports have been deliberately set a tiny
bit low to keep boat weight on the keel. Their only real job is to keep
the boat from tipping to one side or the other. These too are
carpet-covered
of course!
17. By the same token, the trailer
strap does not
need or want to be excessively tight. Its only task is to keep the boat
from falling sideways off the trailer not to press the boat onto
the
rollers more than its weight already does!!
I still recall bringing W852 (my second
Wayfarer)
home from Ottawa after buying her there. We had driven about 100 miles
towards Toronto when, after a perhaps slightly speedy left turn off Hwy
7, I suddenly thought: Did I remember to tie the boat down? We stopped
- and sure enough - no tie down. What this shows is that a Wayfarer
will
not easily fall of a trailer (although I managed to make it happen once
- in 1966) and certainly does not want to be really strapped down to
the
trailer!
18. Another add-on to the original
trailer is what
Canadian Tire
calls Wheel Bearing
Protectors - part #0408420P as borrowed from their site below:
..

..
To let them tell
it, this product
does the following:
-
Protects
bearings from dust and
dirt
-
Water
Resistant
-
Pressure ring
keeps grease in
the bearing
-
Eliminates
the need to repack
the bearings
-
Grease nipple
allows application
of grease without removing the bearing
-
Heavy duty
triple plated metal
resists corrosion
-
Comes with
vinyl cap for added
protection (Al's note: watch you don't
lose these since I did lose one and had to use a bright green lid from
a can of shaving cream instead until they finally took pity on me
earlier
this year and replaced it when I was in for service!)
19. I never said
I was a technical
expert on trailers, just experienced at putting them to use. I went out
this morning and checked the tire walls where it says all kinds of neat
stuff. I think the reference to tire size says: 5.70 x 8. Is
that
the size? I couldn't figure out the sizes from their catalogue either.
Can someone clue me in here??
What I do know is
that a
few years ago, I decided to go up from the smallest diameter trailer
tires
that seem to be standard on most trailers the right size to carry
Wayfarers.
I gather this reduces heating from friction since the larger wheels
don't
need to do a many revolutions to go the same distance as the smaller
ones.
This is particularly useful if you do a lot of expressway trailing - or
heaven forbid - want to get there faster than 100km/h. |
|
20. Note the centre rollers
(previous referred
to in #15) adjusted just right to fit the contours of the keel.
21. You can see here how they can be
adjusted.
22. Likewise for the longitudinal
outside supports
which fit ever so perfectly inside the bilge keel on each side!
23. Note the carpet sewed onto the
trailer strap
by my wife and sometimes crew, Julia, to protect the paint on the chine.
24. Oops! If your board is
prone to falling
down when left unsupported (like mine in this photo!), you should make
sure you keep that from happening. Since I like the tightness of my
centreboard
brake which is just right to stay in position while racing but not too
hard for my various crews to move, I don't want to use this method -
even
if could get at it with the board full up! What I use instead is one of
those 1/4" bungy cords with metal hooks on the ends. The latter hook
nicely
under the forward part of the CB box after being wrapped once or twice
around the box and the top corner of the centreboard as shown below:
...
...
If you don't keep the board fully up in
this or
some other way, what happens is that when you slide the boat off the
trailer,
the board angles further down - having been supported previous by the
middle
roller - and gets caught on the aft roller. If you launch with a
certain
amount of panache and flourish, the latter comes to a sickening end
when
the wafer thin trailing edge of the board you spent many winter hours
on
comes to a sickening, crunching, grinding halt against the aft roller
and
or the launch ramp!
I've done this a couple of times and
would dearly
love never to do it again - but you can see above, I could be swearing
at the Midwinters if I don't bungy the board up before then.
In addition, it probably does not help
your leading
edge to have to support all the board weight in that one spot but I've
never noted any damage in that regard.
25. Note how we tie the cover onto the
boat by
going right under everything - trailer and all. See also #27) |
|
26. A close-up of how we tie the
trailer lights
board into its position after hooking its pintle at the upper end into
the gudgeon that is the upper boat fitting.
27. I just use a slip knot to tie the
cover on
- over the years I've developed a knack for snapping that half hitch
with
the loop hard enough that it stays on all the way from Oakville to
Florida!
And it's so nice and easy to undo. Actually, I do a double half hitch
on
the very front rope which for some reason comes loose on long trips
otherwise!
28. One last look at those well
adjusted centre
rollers! |
|