As you noted with reference to my WIT submission, my hatch modifications took a slightly less formidable approach.  I figured stiffening the edges of the opening, providing a secondary and much wider and resilient piece of sealing rubber, and adding hold down clasps to the unsecured front edge should make a significant improvement, yet still maintain quick access to storage.  Seems successful however it has never been tested in anger for very long... a capsized and up again without getting wet above the knees episode a couple years ago had no water enter at all.  Although the entire back hatch region should theoretically be sealed I do think Richard Waterson plug improvements to the side foam compartments worth doing. 

I have always worried about immersion time and getting post-capsize water out of the boat quickly especially on Lk Superior which is lucky to be much above freezing at the best of times.  For hypothermia reasons (or alligator bait at the W mid-winters) I thus don't really agree with Richard Johnson's capsize recovery technique ... I'd suggest get back in the boat asap, board up, two people (one balancing, at minimum one bucketing) and get it empty and under control again fast (if a sea anchor is really desired bring another bucket to tie to the painter and throw it overboard).  As also experienced by Richard W, capsizes often come in cycles due to instability of the flooded boat... the faster emptied and sailing again the better... and drain tubes should allow sailing off without much bailing at all.  I have had a number of discussions with Richard Johnson over the years about through storage compartment drainage tubes (I think he even figured out some of the dimensions for positioning the holes) and I recall a few emails on the topic (some serious and some tongue-in-cheek) have passed through the Whiffle. 

I like the drainage tube idea, many dinghy classes have transom flaps for capsize drainage (as does now the W MkIV), and it is a bit ridiculous for a dinghy as turtle prone as the MKIII particularly and perhaps the class generally to have to deal with capsize water only with a bucket.  But as noted there appears provision in the rules for MkIII connections up to 4-3/8"dia (I'd consider that inside dia) and precedence has also been made with the MkIV so I say have at it.  Besides if breaking a class rule helps keep me out of a cold lake then rules are going to be broken. The under floor floatation design of the MkIII does suit drainage tubes better than other versions but personally I think there should be nothing in the rules to prohibit them for any W mark.  If the idea of equality on the race course is everyone has to flop about after a capsize for 10mins of bailing then that is a sad state of affairs. 

My idea is slightly different from Richard J's although same in principle.  I intended to use fibreglass tube between cockpit and stern bulkheads. Glassed connections, leakproof, strong, and with a plastic flap on the transom held in place with shock cord. I originally thought about various ABS or PVC plumbing supplies but couldn't quite find fittings and installation atachment that would work. To make it more complicated I was further wanting to install a circular deck plate on the inboard end, the idea being that when one wants to sleep in the boat when cruising a screwed in deck plate would prevent water coming back up the tube when the stern gets pushed down. Unscrew them when sailing again and the drain tubes are ready for action.  The original impediment was difficulty in finding a convenient commercial source of thin wall fibreglass tube of roughly the correct diameter.  I was going to make my own by wrapping cloth round some pipe but then I bought a keel boat and some of the project focus shifted.  On the other hand, I can now utilize sections of Lk Superior that seemed a bit too daunting for the Wayfarer.