Wayfarer spring tune-up check list - anyone want to add to Dave
Hansman's quick list?
Original Message -----
Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:42 AM
Hi Al and Dave,
I just wondered if there might be some information or advice on the
following. Blue Sky is having a maintenance day this Sat. on the
Wayfarers, hoping to get them into a bit better racing/instruction
shape. Maybe there is something on the website re.
Thanks if you think of anything.
- Bouyancy: Dave discussed how you do it in the water...but
are there some suspect spots to look at now? What gasket around hatch
cover do you usually use, one from a local hardware? Should we
reseat fittings. With silicone? or other filler? Would it be prudent to
force air into the tanks and see where the most sudsy bubbling occurs?
- Re. fillers to use on hull....any suggestions. (Pedits?)
- Re. mast: things to look for (meat hooks on shrouds, etc).
Or wait untill test rake if need to replace shrouds? Spinnaker lines
and halyards not running smoothly. (Maybe try to refeed with tracer
line? lubricate fittings? In the mast track ...silicone spray?)
2 Apr 2008 22:05:44 -0400
thinking!! This sounds like a fine job for Dave to give advice on. My
boat maintenance record is not of the finest!!
Original Message -----
Sue Pilling; Uncle Al
Friday, April 04, 2008 8:56 AM
I am sitting on a vehicle heading to a
tunnel project site near the Swiss border, so will use my Blackberry to
put a few points down for you. It is not easy to type long answers on
this keyboard but I will do my best.
1. Look carefully at the sheaves top and bottom. These are usually
worn, sometimes very badly. Will damage halyard and/or be hard to turn.
Use silicone lubricant. Some sheaves may be nylon - okay with rope
halyard but not for wire. Replace if necessary.
2. Inspect entire wire halyard for damage. Should run freely, lay
straight (if it wants to curl up, this is a sign of internal damage)
and be "clean" of dirt, corrosion, etc. Look at the loops on each end
to ensure they are okay, including the swaged sleeve. Make sure the
rope connection is not frayed at the wire loop.
3. Inspect shrouds and look carefully at the turnbuckles, if so
equipped. If they show signs of having been bent or damaged, replace
and do not reuse.
4. Inspect all three halyards end to end for signs of damage. If all
three run in the mast groove and are not running internally, make sure
the loops at the end of the wire halyards are neat and small. If not,
things will bind as you raise/lower sails. Using 1/8" or 3/16" lines
help alleviate the problem (assuming wire halyards). If halyards are
rope only, there should be no issue with 1/4" line as long as it has a
smooth outer jacket.
5. While you are at it, check the wind indicator and mounting.
6. What is the condition of the mast pin? What size is it? When
mast is erected, weight of mast (and therefore rig tension) should not
be on the pin. The pin should be loose when the mast is erected and
shrouds attached. (Al's note: We just discussed this at
Saturday's Round Table at the MSC: To take weight off the mast pin, you
may need to add plastic (nylon??) of the type used for kitchen cutting
boards at the foot of the mast step until the mast sits high enough to
take weight off the pin. This may in turn require a rake re-check?)
7. Is there a rig tensioner (which there should be)? Inspect,
8. The spreaders are of concern on older rigs. They are loose and
sloppy compared to the fixed and quite rigid ones on modern rigs. I
upgraded both my W's. Check the bolts and fittings to make sure they
are not sloppy. Check the distance between shrouds at the spreaders as
well as the "attitude" of the spreaders - they should go up slightly
toward spreaders (Al's
note: shrouds??) when
mast is erected. The spreader bracket can sometimes be bent or can be
loose and this affects spreader positioning.
Turn the boat over for inspection.
1. Look all around the edges where the joint between the hull and the
topside is made. In the W's BSSC has, this may be the major source of
leakage into forward and rear bounancy tanks (it was on my W2178). The
gaps are not obvious unless the W is upside down. Caulking can provide
a temporary fix, but thickened epoxy is better.
2. What does the c/b slot look like? Cracks, chips
existing? This is a good time to remove and refinish the c/b.
Check the angle of the c/b in full down position. (Al's note: board should be able to go
down to near the 83° max. allowed by the Class Rules)
3. Check the keel bands and make sure all
screws are there and are tight. May want to remove screws and
reinstall, sealing with epoxy as you do so. Now is the time to install
slot gaskets if you are so inclined.
4. Check pintle/gudgeon mountings on transom as well as the drain
plugs. All should be sealed and tight. Pintle/gudgeons should be thru
bolted and caulked on the inside, too.
5. Check condition of rub rail. Poor condition here can lead to leaks
in buoyancy compartments through loose screws or rivets.
6. Repair any serious scratches or damage to gel coat.
1. As you already have pointed out, check the gaskets. Everything you
need to fix them is available at Canadian Tire. Use dense, closed cell
2. Make sure the hatch cover retainers can clamp the hatch lids
tightly. Note that these bolts are another source of leakage into the
3. Check and lubricate all cleats and blocks. Use through bolting on
all cleats, if possible. Check screws and bolts to ensure they are
4. Check the bow plate. This is almost always loose on older Ws that
haven't had good attention. This is a critical area as it absorbs 100%
of the forward rig (jib luff) tension. You may need a small,
strong person to go inside front compartment to get at bolts (and it
should be thru bolted, not just screwed down - danger!). I have been
able to get into the forward compartment when the W has been upside
down but not when upright.
5. Check for cracks along inside of fore/aft compartment bulkheads
where they meet both the floor and the top deck. Make sure all screws
and fittings are sealed and tightly installed. Check drain plugs and
replace if necessary.
6. General inspection of hiking straps, floor board, seats, bailers and
other cockpit items. Good time to clean out last year's dirt and
7. Check the bridle or traveller. I remember the traveler was a problem
on one of those boats last year.
8. Check foredeck for cracks (usually caused by people walking on the
old deck - to be discouraged).
9. Check mast step and pulpit for damage or wear.
10. Check where the c/b box joins the thwart. On some older GRP boats
this was a real point of weakness. May need strengthening here as it
has to be solid to counter the stress of the c/b and help stiffen the
11. Floorboard supports are often also the stiffeners for the bottom of
the boat. These can break loose from the bottom over time; hull loses
stiffness. Epoxy repairs required. Be careful, if installing new
fasteners to secure the floorboards, that the bouancy compartment is
not compromised (as happened on the W Mk2 "Mystic" under the mast step).
1. Check blade condition, repair. Will it meet measurement requirements?
2. Make sure of tight fit of tiller to rudder head.
3. Check and lubricate tiller extension. Is it firmly attached to the
4. Check that the rudder holddown works, can be loosened quickly but
will keep the rudder down when you need it down.
That is all I can think of for now. I have Blackberry writer's cramp so
I will concentrate on the Austrian scenery going by. As for the actual
bouancy testing, that is the last thing to worry about until the rest
of the checks are done and required work completed.
Original Message -----
susan pilling ; Hansman, Dave
Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:23 PM
Re: boat maintenance
I just seriously read
this as I start to prepare next week's Weekly Whiffle. You've
outdone yourself on this one. It's great and I have just added it to
the WIT - under Maintenance,
Repair and Reference. Thanks a million, Dave.
Uncle Al (W3854)
Original Message -----
Wednesday, April 16, 2008 7:40 AM
hope people find the list useful, and your additional comments are
welcomed (you are right – I wrote spreaders when I meant shrouds). If I
had been standing next to the W while making the list it would have
been more complete but I had to rely on the pictures in my memory to
walk mentally through the boat.
under the mast step is a good idea to take the weight. Cutting board
material can work. I use stainless steel. This comment made me think of
of the areas that is always a concern (in my thinking) is the
structural area of the hull immediately under the mast. The rig tension
can exert a lot of pressure on this area, pressure that many of the
earlier Mk1 and Mk2 boats were not designed to withstand. Cracks
appear, over time, from the stress. This manifests itself the most in
the Mk2 as the forward buoyancy compartment, on some versions, goes
under the mast (drain hole therefore aft of the mast). When cracks
appear below the mast this compromises the integrity of the forward
compartment. Fortunately, the woodies don’t have this problem although
this area should still be inspected regularly, even on woodies, to make
sure nothing is loosening up, screws aren’t shearing, etc. This is an
area that gets hidden due to lines, hardware, hiking straps, spinnaker
bags, etc, so problems aren’t always immediately noticeable.