Subject: motor mount installation
-----Original Message-----
From: michell Imlau-Jeppesen
Sent: woensdag 12 mei 2004 11:42
To: 'wayfarer'
Subject: Motor Matters

Hello Ton

I have read about motor matters and outboard brackets on the Wayfarer Institute Of Techology. I have got a outboard bracket from Boatsnbits and would like to ask if you have any mesurements from your boat to place it on the transom ?

Kind regards

Michell Denmark


----- Original Message -----
From: wayfarer
To: 'michell Imlau-Jeppesen'
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 9:52 AM

Hej Michell,

It is nice to know that ones essays are actually read. Thanks for the feedback.

To answer your question I would need to go to my boat and measure. But from what I remember there isn't much play due to existing re-enforcements in the transom that prevent mounting just anywhere. And the situation may vary for each boat.

I mounted it as far away from the rudder as possible to avoid the propeller biting the rudder. Despite using a bracket this is still possible when you turn the motor towards the rudder and the rudder towards the motor. Bear in mind that motors under 4HP do not have a reverse, you simply turn them around. So it is impossible to avoid turning the motor.

If you do the same (move the bracket as far away from the rudder as possible), you will notice there is a maximum distance from the rudder because of said transom re- enforcements. Any further out and you won't be able to get the nuts on the bolts on a flat plane.

What you could try is to make a stencil of cardboard with the four bolt holes and four circles representing the area the nuts need. Then cut it square around the four circles and fit it inside the aft locker against the transom. Then try to shift it as far out as it will go while taking care it stays level. You certainly don't want the motor slanted on your transom. It has to go exactly parallel to the rudder pintles.

Once you defined the exact location on the inside, drill a small pilot hole from the inside to the outside and use that to drill the holes from the outside using the actual bracket. This approach is more accurate the using the stencil to drill all holes from the inside.

I don't know your boat but the Moore's built MK2's like I have, already have a re-enforcement piece of plywood laminated in the transom and I used it by mounting the bracket using the existing re-enforcement. I did not use the re-enforcement inside the aft buoyancy tank (as is in my drawing) after all.
(See: http://www.wayfarer.nl/downloads/Outboard_bracket.pdf  or click here)

Finally use lots of Sikaflex, remove excess Sikaflex with a towel (paper, lots of them) and thinner and be prepared to have black hands for the rest of the week. The best way to waterproof is to tighten the bolts after the sikaflex has set for a day or so. That will put some compression on the now hardened rubber and gives a better seal than tightening them right away. Also there is a risk that the Sikaflex layer is too thin when the nuts are tightened right away.

We shan't be able to visit Rantzausminde this year due to late school holidays but I plan to visit the Danske Mesterskap at Svendborg with some friends (and leave the family home). Knøn will be there for you to admire ;-). Perhaps we will meet then?

Mange Hilsener, Ton (W5011 - Knøn )

PS: I forgot to mention one thing in my last email:

36 mm ply may be hard to get, I used two 18 mm pieces and glued them together. Without glue it will work just as well but water may creep in between the pieces.

18 mm is standard available in all DIY stores. And don't bother to get expensive marine ply, just paint or varnish it well. The motor will damage it soon enough and you will replace the wood block long before it starts to rot.

Med mange W-hilsener,

Ton